從表村往南,沿「瀾滄湖」走三十多里,公路便盤旋著爬上了怒山。
怒山山脈的全稱是他念他翁山-怒山山脈,在西藏它被稱為他念他翁山,在雲南則稱怒山或碧羅雪山。它是瀾滄江和怒江的分水嶺,山脈的西側便是怒江。從我翻越的地方沿著山脈一直向北,有一座著名的雪山,是怒山山脈的最高峰,被藏族人奉為神山,它被稱為「梅里」。
爬山的時候最擔心的是狗。養在鄉鎮人多的地方的狗見人會躲,在道旁村子裡養的狗則是見了人眼睛就放光——好在多數時候它們是被拴住的。有汽車或摩托車過去的時候它們假裝看不到,我騎過時候,它們則逞盡看門狗之能,狂吠著朝我猛衝過來,有時候還呼朋引類,好像有唐僧肉可以分一樣,嚇得我腎上腺素飆升,拼命地逃。現在說得輕鬆,那一刻真是要命的。更有意思的是,有些農民家養的不是柴狗,而且哈巴狗,這些小不點見了我也想逞英雄,又吠又蹦又跳的,我都不知道是可怕還是可笑。
爬到高處,有幾個村子,從這裡遠眺,瀾滄江迤邐南去,兩岸遠山如黛,層層疊疊,風景如畫。可惜,這些山頂村落的生活卻沒那麼美,豬圈牛圈雞圈的屎尿混著人的生活污水直接排在路邊,垃圾處理依靠火燒,耕地少得可憐,買東西想必也不方便,所以才有小貨車在各村巡遊,他們一邊放著「小蘋果」一邊用擴音喇叭大聲吆喝:「好消息!好消息!廠家直銷,新型大衣櫃,全不銹鋼不生鏽,老鼠咬不爛……」
順便說一句,這條路上沒有補給,得自備。
過了這些村子,又爬了好久,一直爬到路邊的樹葉仍被寒霜包裹著的地方,一直到下午四點五十分,終於到達海拔2800米的埡口。——這是出發以來最難爬的一座山。
在埡口上回望瀾滄江方向,我終於可以和對岸雲嶺山脈的高峰平起平坐了;可往西邊眺望,怒山山脈卻像鬼門關一樣巍然屹立,那些高不可攀的山和深不可測的谷讓人看得膽寒。真不愧是怒山呀!
【是日花費】
- 飲食:38
- 住宿:80
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